Installing a New Shower Unit
A successful shower installation requires mindful planning and a lot of work. In most cases, you will require to do three types of tasks: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you need to decide on the type of shower that you want to set up. It is important to determine whether the chosen shower can dealing with particular systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower systems nowadays are designed to be versatile to various water pressures (such as saved warm water and cold mains).
It is also crucial to take into account the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The tube and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature level can be adjusted via the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and incredibly basic to install. However, although the pipe connection is easy, it is quickly dislodged. Furthermore, it is inconvenient to change the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose and spray of this type of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is an extremely inexpensive choice and no extra plumbing is included. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also experience inconvenient temperature level control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall unit and the cold and hot water materials are linked to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a range of knobs (in more costly showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the previously mentioned mixers. They likewise require extra plumbing of hot and cold supply of water pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type belong of the wall unit and the cold and hot water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is total with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to avoid it from becoming too hot. One of the greatest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes convenient temperature control. However, it is the most pricey of the various mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system containing a powerful electrical pump that can altering both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water cistern and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it warms the water electrically. It is very important to keep in mind that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system allows the temperature level and pressure to be changed via a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are better as they stay unaffected by other taps elsewhere in use within the family. A significant drawback of electric showers is that the control knob just permits the choice of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a higher pressure. This is troublesome in the winter season when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. However, this issue is tackled in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the type of shower you want to install, the shower head should either be suited order to avoid its contact with the water in https://www.fixitrightplumbing.com.au/plumber-bayswater/ the bath below or the base tray, or it should have a check valve.
Before starting, it is suggested to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work involved. In addition, the drain system to get rid of the drainage will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable route and the shower switch will also need to be considered if an instant or electrical shower system is being installed.
Use the direction guide supplied with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipelines that will provide the water to the shower system, it is essential to cut off the supply of water. In order to protect the pipes, they need to be offered a water resistant covering and likewise fitted with isolating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipes that will be providing the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the supply of water and test the pipes for any leakages, as some might need tightening.
If you are installing an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. As soon as these connections have been made (there ought to be assistance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be raised to a higher height (often as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood support beneath it-- potentially made up of struts and blockboards. If you select this choice, the main and distribution pipelines will also need to be raised to fulfill the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is selected, it should be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to utilize 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the go to the shower as short and straight as possible so as to maintain optimal pressure and minimise heat loss. Furthermore, by minimising using elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the water supply. You can attain this by flexing the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaking or neglecting regional code restrictions.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipeline compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when setting up them.
# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.
# Not properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, constantly run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.